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Cerbaiona

Cerbaiona, Brunello di Montalcino

Sangiovese, Chianti & Regions, Tuscany, Italy, 2012
From only £148.00 per bottle

In Stock Equiv £148.00 (Save £0.00)

 

The Brunello di Montalcino from Cerbaiona has all the hallmarks of the great Bordeaux Chateaux before the rise of Michel Rolland and the phenomenal success of Robert Parker, if criticism can be levied at Rolland and Parker it is for creating an international style of wine making. Cerbaiona is the anthesis to Parkerisation.

Brunello di Montalcino was the first Italian region to receive DOCG status in 1968, back then it applied to just 11 producers. Diego and wife Nora Molinari’s first vintage was 1977.

2012 A ROCKSTAR VINTAGE FOR MONTALCINO - James Suckling

'Fans of Brunello di Montalcino are in for a treat with the 2012 vintage, they have more in common with the legendary 2010 vintage and are most like the 2004s, a harmonious and gorgeous year for Brunellos… what I love about the 2012 Brunellos I’ve tasted so far. They show beautiful perfumes of ripe fruit and hints of earth with a mandarin and orange highlight. The palates are rich and dense, with an underlying crispness and linear thread from start to finish.'

Cerbaiona's tiny 3ha estate, with just half planted with Brunello (the clone of Sangiovese permitted by the Consorzio Brunello di Montalcino) is farmed organically without herbicides, pesticides or fungicides, the grapes are pressed in a wooden press for gentle extraction and vinification is in cement before oak aging in 20hl Slovenian Botte (very large barrels) The Brunello is released five years after the vintage, spends 30 months in oak and one year in bottle.

Cerbaiona, 2012 Brunello di Montalcino DOCG

Dark ruby-red. Deep, complex aromas of dark red cherry, violet, flint, licorice and underbrush. Rich dense and juicy, with multilayered flavors of dark red cherry, tar and licorice. Smooth yet vibrant, almost brooding in nature. Celler 2023-2035

Also available in bond: £650 per six (email samuel@harperwells.com for details)

Cerbaiona

Antonio Galloni puts it simply and effectively, 'Diego Molinari’s Brunellos are among the finest wines of Montalcino, and Italy, for that matter.' Like the great wines of Burgundy, the greatness comes from the perfect location of Cerbaiona’s vines. Galloni makes a direct comparison with one of the best, stating it 'is one of the most blessed terroirs in the entire appellation… Think of Cerbaiona as the Richebourg of Montalcino.' 

Alongside Sangiovese, the vineyard is planted with Cabernet Sauvignon , Malvasia Nera, Merlot and Syrah. This IGT is effectivley a field blend; Smokey black fruits, bitter sweet finish, a truly memorable wine. From many other producers of Cerbaiona's standing, this would be called a Super Tuscan and priced accordingly, however they do things a little different at Cerbaiona - you can read their letter to Journalists 'A No Point Zone' 

I kindly request that journalists and critics who taste wines with me at Cerbaiona refrain from using scores in reviewing and expressing their opinions about the wines.
It is nearly unbelievable that a numerical score is the single most used descriptor found in wine reviews; that people actually refer to a wine, for example, as “a 97 point wine”. Yet the meaning of these numbers - what the number actually refers to - is completely vague and imprecise.
I’ve never met a grower or winemaker who uses scores to conduct her work. Valuations and descriptions, of course, but a 100 point system? Not. This alone should be cause for reviewers and their readers to ponder, and explain exactly to what they are referring with scores.
The greatest use of these scores, obviously, is for marketing purposes which benefit those selling wines and increases the influence of those writing about them. This is a very unhealthy and misleading situation.
Sadly, it is a system that instead of deepening the understanding and respect for viticulture and artisan wine production, has created a parallel universe in which the critics and consumers become further and further detached from the beauty and real nature of wine, and moreover, removed from the work and insight of those who grow grapes and produce wine.
These same concerns were expressed candidly* by the late Teobaldo Cappellano more than three decades ago, when the use of scores was only in its infancy.
I believe Teobaldo said something very profound about the social impact that scores have on the integrity of craftsmanship, as well as expressing concerns about the autocratic risks that an unfounded belief in numerical certainty might breed.
A softer and more inquisitive form of journalism and criticism might be better than the score bazooka, with all its collateral damage and the one man on top approach. After all, viticulture and wine production require significant humility and patience.
A wine should instill wonder and curiosity - and remain free of hubris.

Welcome to Cerbaiona.


Matthew Fioretti
Cerbaiona Srl Società Agricola di G. Rieschel, M. Fioretti & Co.



Wine features
  • 0.75l volume
  • 14% ABV
  • Drink by 2050
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