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Cerbaiona

Cerbaiona, Toscana IGT

Field Blend, Chianti & Regions, Tuscany, Italy, 2014
From only £27.33 per bottle

In Stock Equiv £27.33 (Save £0.00)

 
Many producers of Cerbaiona's standing would call this a Super Tuscan, for Diego and Nora Molinari, this is their family wine drinking spectacularly well now, but still with a decade of life left in it.

Cerbaiona is a small 3ha estate, producing just 8,000 bottles per annum, with just half planted with Brunello (the clone of Sangiovese permitted by the Consorzio Brunello di Montalcino) the remaining vineyard is planted with Cabernet Sauvignon, Malvasia Nera, Merlot and Syrah, this is to all extent and purpose a field blend.

Diego and wife Nora Molinari farm without herbicides, pesticides or fungicides, the grapes are pressed in a wooden press for gentle extraction and vinification is in cement before oak aging in 20hl Slovenian Botte (very large barrels)

The tiny production, similar to Le Pin in Bordeaux means that the wines are inevitably scarce, but those who chose to hunt these wines down are rewarded for their efforts with smokey black fruits, a bitter sweet finish and a truly memorable wine. One to stock the wine rack up with, if you can.

Cerbaiona

Antonio Galloni puts it simply and effectively, 'Diego Molinari’s Brunellos are among the finest wines of Montalcino, and Italy, for that matter.' Like the great wines of Burgundy, the greatness comes from the perfect location of Cerbaiona’s vines. Galloni makes a direct comparison with one of the best, stating it 'is one of the most blessed terroirs in the entire appellation… Think of Cerbaiona as the Richebourg of Montalcino.' 

Alongside Sangiovese, the vineyard is planted with Cabernet Sauvignon , Malvasia Nera, Merlot and Syrah. This IGT is effectivley a field blend; Smokey black fruits, bitter sweet finish, a truly memorable wine. From many other producers of Cerbaiona's standing, this would be called a Super Tuscan and priced accordingly, however they do things a little different at Cerbaiona - you can read their letter to Journalists 'A No Point Zone' 

I kindly request that journalists and critics who taste wines with me at Cerbaiona refrain from using scores in reviewing and expressing their opinions about the wines.
It is nearly unbelievable that a numerical score is the single most used descriptor found in wine reviews; that people actually refer to a wine, for example, as “a 97 point wine”. Yet the meaning of these numbers - what the number actually refers to - is completely vague and imprecise.
I’ve never met a grower or winemaker who uses scores to conduct her work. Valuations and descriptions, of course, but a 100 point system? Not. This alone should be cause for reviewers and their readers to ponder, and explain exactly to what they are referring with scores.
The greatest use of these scores, obviously, is for marketing purposes which benefit those selling wines and increases the influence of those writing about them. This is a very unhealthy and misleading situation.
Sadly, it is a system that instead of deepening the understanding and respect for viticulture and artisan wine production, has created a parallel universe in which the critics and consumers become further and further detached from the beauty and real nature of wine, and moreover, removed from the work and insight of those who grow grapes and produce wine.
These same concerns were expressed candidly* by the late Teobaldo Cappellano more than three decades ago, when the use of scores was only in its infancy.
I believe Teobaldo said something very profound about the social impact that scores have on the integrity of craftsmanship, as well as expressing concerns about the autocratic risks that an unfounded belief in numerical certainty might breed.
A softer and more inquisitive form of journalism and criticism might be better than the score bazooka, with all its collateral damage and the one man on top approach. After all, viticulture and wine production require significant humility and patience.
A wine should instill wonder and curiosity - and remain free of hubris.

Welcome to Cerbaiona.


Matthew Fioretti
Cerbaiona Srl Società Agricola di G. Rieschel, M. Fioretti & Co.



Wine features
  • 0.75l volume
  • 14% ABV
  • Drink by 2027
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